I am truly excited
and jealous of anyone who decides to go for an adventure in Georgia.
Here are my recommendations for
dining, accommodation and partying. But, make time to walk, sit, ponder, think and observe.
- Saba
Accommodation
Tbilisi -
Batumi -
Conscious Dining
Tbilisi –
1.
Keto & Kote – named after the most famous Georgian
Opera turned into a film (Georgian equivalent of Gone with the Wind) is one of
my favorite classic places to visit. Food is modern Georgian and well-balanced.
More upscale than others. Has the BEST views and is quite tucked away, not a
tourist trap but mostly for Tbilissians. This would be my first dining choice.
2.
Iasamani – the word means lavender and it is one of
my favorite spots, very calming, delicious food, not much décor but classic,
old timey restaurant with quiet atmosphere. Truly recommend.
3.
Café Litera – My personal favorite for dinner / old
charm / 1920’s style classic restaurant with wonderful selection of wines from
local, small producers. It’s located in the House of prominent Georgian Noble
family (turned into the “Public House of Literature” during soviet times, with
amazing history, old school charm and finesse). I would suggest booking in
advance. Is frequented by expats, prominent business and law professionals in
Tbilisi. Has the most wonderful backyard.
4.
Café Leila - Small, quaint café with delicious food,
in a very old district (literally across the street from the oldest Christian
church in Tbilisi, 4th century). Good for quick lunch, bite, small
parties, definitely try their home-made compote. Decorated in classic early 19th century Eastern
style. Vegan/vegetarian friendly.
5.
Café Stamba (inside the Stamba Hotel) – One of the
trendiest places, definitely very vegetarian friendly with modernized Georgian
cuisine, not the most traditional but they pay respects to traditional ways of
doing things. I’m told it’s frequented by Russian guests a lot (a lot of people
frown on that, so I would not say it has authentic Tbilissian spirit). Used to
be managed by my closest friend from Rooms Kitchen (more
youthful, literally around the corner, good spot for fine breakfast) and Lolita (more of a
upscale place to grab a drink after, one of my favorite bars, literally across
the street from Rooms and Stamba). Here’s their IG.
6.
8000 Vintages – Where do I even start… One thing about
Georgia – we invented wine, the oldest clay aging pots in Europe were found in
Georgia and we have a history of wine trading dating back into ancient Greek
times. This is truly the BEST curated
wine bar/café there is in Tbilisi. Two friends of mine (please ask them to
mention Irakli’s name when they go there, he’s my very good friend) opened it
and it’s the only place one should go for wine. Quite affordable with an
amazingly fine selection. I always buy wine from here and whenever someone’s
coming back from Georgia, I always ask them to bring me a bottle of my
favorites: Danieli’s Kisi (white wine), Koncho’s Kindzmarauli,
or a little prisier but my
absolute FAVORITE “Usakhelouri” by Divisiani Marani, or Royal Racha. They have
3 locations but I recommend the one in Vaké district (the one behind the opera
house is beter located but I spoke to my friend who owns the place and he said
Vaké one is better). Please don’t hesitate to ask for Irakli (the owner) and Salome
(Irakli’s spouse, my good friends). Their IG.
7.
Barbarestan – An amazing spot with menu revived from
1800’s (based on diaries of noble Georgian woman, Barbare). It’s also my mom’s
favorite restaurant.
8.
Alubali restaurant – recommended by a friend, apparently frequented
by lots of Russians.
9.
Living Vino – natural wines! Vegan!
10.
Ghumeli – recommended by a friend.
11.
Tbili Sio – recommended by a friend.
12.
Ninia’s Garden – recommended by a friend.
13. Veliaminov Barrelhouse - the best kept secret in the heart of the city, this is a rusty old diner (more like an eatery), famous for its affordable and traditional food. You won't encounter classy diners in here, nor will you come across Instagram influencers. Think of this place as a McDonald's, if it was from 17th century Georgia.
Batumi –
1.
Grill Town – Number 1 in my opinion, amazing ambiance
and unique interior.
2.
Askaneli Restaurant – Very good wine!
Kutaisi –
1.
Restaurant “Debi” (sisters) – Classic Kutaissian place with
vintage look, amazing food from what I’ve heard.
2.
Paolo – in a wonderful old town (this is where my
father was born) and old capital of Tbilisi (sort of the equivalent of Chicago)
– this café came recommended by a friend of mine who I trust. I’ve never been
myself but seems nice. Menu looks good! Definitely a good town to order dry,
red wines like Saperavi.
3.
Palaty – near the old town. Beautiful!
Nightlife
Bassiani
Khidi
Left Bank -
Tes -
Mutant Radio -
Dedaena Bar -
Tsatashina
L'Ado by Valiko
Baths
Chreli Abano is recommended as the best sulfur bath experience in Tbilisi. Located in the heart of old town, the building itself is a splendid example of rich cultural heritage and synthesizes Eastern traditions with Western innovations. I recommend reserving a spot prior to your visit. I also recommend requesting a "Qisa Massage" - a traditional Georgian technique of massage.
Photo credit: Barbarestan
Recommendations don’t reflect anyone else’s opinions, other
than mine. – Saba Gvetazzé
I asked ChatGPT to write a poetic verse on visiting Georgia -
In the realm of wanderlust, my heart alights,
With envy's touch, I yearn for those who wander,
Amidst Georgia's cities, where dreams take flight,
Exploring its essence, a symphony to ponder.
Oh, fortunate souls, poised for an exquisite sojourn,
Immersed in Georgia's tapestry, vibrant and alive,
Where cuisine unveils secrets, a culinary dawn,
And the pulse of nightlife beckons, a rhythm to thrive.
Let me guide you through this dreamlike realm,
Where senses awaken, and desires take wing,
For dining, a feast awaits, a tantalizing helm,
Embark on a gastronomic journey, let melodies sing.
In Tbilisi's heart, like a nocturnal fire,
Discover the hidden gems, tucked in its embrace,
Indulge in flavors, both exotic and dire,
As a symphony of tastes dances on your taste.
Venture to Batumi, a coastal reverie,
Where waves serenade the shores of bliss,
A tapestry of flavors, a seaside delicacy,
In culinary harmony, embark on this tryst.
Now, as night descends and stars ignite,
The pulse of Georgia's nightlife calls your name,
An invitation to revel in pure delight,
Unleash your spirit, let the rhythm claim.
In Tbilisi's throbbing heart, seek solace,
Where underground clubs paint the night in hues,
Dance beneath the moon's luminous grace,
As the city's energy courses, wild and true.
Oh, weary traveler, rest in sacred havens,
Where comfort and beauty intertwine,
From rustic retreats to opulent heavens,
Georgia's embrace, an enchanting shrine.
Allow your dreams to drift in Mestia's embrace,
Where mountain peaks touch the heavens above,
Find solace in Sighnaghi's picturesque grace,
Where vineyards whisper stories of love.
So, as you embark on Georgia's grand affair,
May my poetic guide lend wings to your flight,
A dreamy journey, beyond compare,
In Georgia's embrace, find your own delight.
