Guide to Georgia

I am truly excited and jealous of anyone who decides to go for an adventure in Georgia.

Here are my recommendations for dining, accommodation and partying. But, make time to walk, sit, ponder, think and observe. 

- Saba

 

Accommodation

Tbilisi - 



Batumi - 


Conscious Dining

Tbilisi –

 

1.       Keto & Kote – named after the most famous Georgian Opera turned into a film (Georgian equivalent of Gone with the Wind) is one of my favorite classic places to visit. Food is modern Georgian and well-balanced. More upscale than others. Has the BEST views and is quite tucked away, not a tourist trap but mostly for Tbilissians. This would be my first dining choice.

 

2.      Iasamani – the word means lavender and it is one of my favorite spots, very calming, delicious food, not much décor but classic, old timey restaurant with quiet atmosphere. Truly recommend.

 

3.      Café Litera – My personal favorite for dinner / old charm / 1920’s style classic restaurant with wonderful selection of wines from local, small producers. It’s located in the House of prominent Georgian Noble family (turned into the “Public House of Literature” during soviet times, with amazing history, old school charm and finesse). I would suggest booking in advance. Is frequented by expats, prominent business and law professionals in Tbilisi. Has the most wonderful backyard.

 

4.      Café Leila - Small, quaint café with delicious food, in a very old district (literally across the street from the oldest Christian church in Tbilisi, 4th century). Good for quick lunch, bite, small parties, definitely try their home-made compote. Decorated in classic early 19th century Eastern style. Vegan/vegetarian friendly.

 

5.      Café Stamba (inside the Stamba Hotel) – One of the trendiest places, definitely very vegetarian friendly with modernized Georgian cuisine, not the most traditional but they pay respects to traditional ways of doing things. I’m told it’s frequented by Russian guests a lot (a lot of people frown on that, so I would not say it has authentic Tbilissian spirit). Used to be managed by my closest friend from Rooms Kitchen (more youthful, literally around the corner, good spot for fine breakfast) and Lolita (more of a upscale place to grab a drink after, one of my favorite bars, literally across the street from Rooms and Stamba). Here’s their IG.

 

6.      8000 Vintages – Where do I even start… One thing about Georgia – we invented wine, the oldest clay aging pots in Europe were found in Georgia and we have a history of wine trading dating back into ancient Greek times. This is truly the BEST curated wine bar/café there is in Tbilisi. Two friends of mine (please ask them to mention Irakli’s name when they go there, he’s my very good friend) opened it and it’s the only place one should go for wine. Quite affordable with an amazingly fine selection. I always buy wine from here and whenever someone’s coming back from Georgia, I always ask them to bring me a bottle of my favorites: Danieli’s Kisi (white wine), Koncho’s Kindzmarauli, or a little prisier but my absolute FAVORITE “Usakhelouri” by Divisiani Marani, or Royal Racha. They have 3 locations but I recommend the one in Vaké district (the one behind the opera house is beter located but I spoke to my friend who owns the place and he said Vaké one is better). Please don’t hesitate to ask for Irakli (the owner) and Salome (Irakli’s spouse, my good friends). Their IG.

 

7.      Barbarestan – An amazing spot with menu revived from 1800’s (based on diaries of noble Georgian woman, Barbare). It’s also my mom’s favorite restaurant.

 

8.      Alubali restaurant – recommended by a friend, apparently frequented by lots of Russians.

9.      Living Vino – natural wines! Vegan!

10.   Ghumeli – recommended by a friend.

11.    Tbili Sio – recommended by a friend.

12.   Ninia’s Garden – recommended by a friend.

13.  Veliaminov Barrelhouse - the best kept secret in the heart of the city, this is a rusty old diner (more like an eatery), famous for its affordable and traditional food. You won't encounter classy diners in here, nor will you come across Instagram influencers. Think of this place as a McDonald's, if it was from 17th century Georgia. 

 

Batumi –

1.       Grill Town – Number 1 in my opinion, amazing ambiance and unique interior.

2.      Askaneli Restaurant – Very good wine!

 

 

Kutaisi –

1.       Restaurant “Debi” (sisters) – Classic Kutaissian place with vintage look, amazing food from what I’ve heard.

2.      Paolo – in a wonderful old town (this is where my father was born) and old capital of Tbilisi (sort of the equivalent of Chicago) – this café came recommended by a friend of mine who I trust. I’ve never been myself but seems nice. Menu looks good! Definitely a good town to order dry, red wines like Saperavi.

3.      Palaty – near the old town. Beautiful!

 


Nightlife

Bassiani

Khidi

Left Bank -

Tes

Mutant Radio

Dedaena Bar

Tsatashina 

L'Ado by Valiko 


Baths

Chreli Abano is recommended as the best sulfur bath experience in Tbilisi. Located in the heart of old town, the building itself is a splendid example of rich cultural heritage and synthesizes Eastern traditions with Western innovations. I recommend reserving a spot prior to your visit. I also recommend requesting a "Qisa Massage" - a traditional Georgian technique of massage. 


 Photo credit: Barbarestan


 









Recommendations don’t reflect anyone else’s opinions, other than mine. – Saba Gvetazzé


I asked ChatGPT to write a poetic verse on visiting Georgia -


In the realm of wanderlust, my heart alights,

With envy's touch, I yearn for those who wander,

Amidst Georgia's cities, where dreams take flight,

Exploring its essence, a symphony to ponder.


Oh, fortunate souls, poised for an exquisite sojourn,

Immersed in Georgia's tapestry, vibrant and alive,

Where cuisine unveils secrets, a culinary dawn,

And the pulse of nightlife beckons, a rhythm to thrive.


Let me guide you through this dreamlike realm,

Where senses awaken, and desires take wing,

For dining, a feast awaits, a tantalizing helm,

Embark on a gastronomic journey, let melodies sing.


In Tbilisi's heart, like a nocturnal fire,

Discover the hidden gems, tucked in its embrace,

Indulge in flavors, both exotic and dire,

As a symphony of tastes dances on your taste.


Venture to Batumi, a coastal reverie,

Where waves serenade the shores of bliss,

A tapestry of flavors, a seaside delicacy,

In culinary harmony, embark on this tryst.


Now, as night descends and stars ignite,

The pulse of Georgia's nightlife calls your name,

An invitation to revel in pure delight,

Unleash your spirit, let the rhythm claim.


In Tbilisi's throbbing heart, seek solace,

Where underground clubs paint the night in hues,

Dance beneath the moon's luminous grace,

As the city's energy courses, wild and true.


Oh, weary traveler, rest in sacred havens,

Where comfort and beauty intertwine,

From rustic retreats to opulent heavens,

Georgia's embrace, an enchanting shrine.


Allow your dreams to drift in Mestia's embrace,

Where mountain peaks touch the heavens above,

Find solace in Sighnaghi's picturesque grace,

Where vineyards whisper stories of love.


So, as you embark on Georgia's grand affair,

May my poetic guide lend wings to your flight,

A dreamy journey, beyond compare,

In Georgia's embrace, find your own delight.

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